Carlo Ferrara “Dancing Hands Regolatore” CF1997

Model: Carlo Ferrara “Dancing Hands Regolatore” CF1997

Year: July 1999

Features:

The Origin. First and foremost, this is a regulator - a complication that separates the hours, minutes and seconds across different parts of the dial. But this isn’t your typical regulator. Carlo Ferrara stacked a complication on top of a complication. This is a unique "Dancing Hands" Regulator. 

The Movement. On paper, the movement might not look especially exotic. It’s powered by an ETA 2892A2 - a premium ETA calibre used by the likes of IWC, Omega, Breitling and Tudor - but the magic lies in the modification.

The Independence. Carlo Ferrara was an independent watchmaker from Italy, who sadly passed away in 2012 at the age of 69. “Independence” in any industry is hard to pin down with a tight definition, but the easiest way to summarise Ferrara’s level of independence is that the watch company was buried with him. Not literally of course, but after his death no more Carlo Ferrara watches were made. 

The Process. It took Carlo Ferrara six years to engineer the complication. There is an obvious comparison to make between Jiro Katayama, of Otsuka Lotec fame, and Carlo Ferrara. Both took a fairly standard third party movements and had the ambition to turn it into something truly special and unique. 

The Production. After finalising the complication, Ferrara relocated his workshop to Switzerland and assembled a small team to help scale production. Though the watches were only produced for around 12 years, I’ve found over 20 distinct pieces, with retail prices ranging from $5,000 to $15,000 depending on case material. It suggests Ferrara opted for the classically independent watchmaking move of prioritising design freedom over steady profits.

The Design. Given the age of the watch, and the fact the company no longer exists, official design details are sparse. However, as Carlo Ferrara lived in Rome, it’s my assumption that the design must have been inspired by the shape of the city’s legendary Circus Maximus. And the crossed keys in the logo? They’re straight from the Papal insignia - the Keys to Heaven - another quiet tribute to the watch’s Italian roots.

Servicing. For anyone thinking about buying it, but worrying about the unusual movement - fear not as any watchmaker capable of servicing an ETA calibre should be able to handle it. The modified movement runs at 28,800bph and features 32 jewels - eleven more than the standard ETA 2892A2 thanks to the added module. I spoke with the auction house in Japan that last serviced this example, and their verdict? “Looks complicated, but simple to understand and disassemble.” That sounds like the perfect type of complication.

Specifications:

Condition: In great condition overall. Recently serviced. No marks noticeable significance, other than hairlines on the caseback. On an aftermarket strap. 

Scope: No box, but comes with the original purchase papers.

Movement: Heavily Modified ETA 2892A2, 28,800bph with 32 jewels

Dimensions:

• Case Width: 39.0mm
  
• Lug to lug: 45.5mm
• Case Thickness: 10.6mm